Before assembling the adapter to the engine, clean both the adapter and engine, it
makes the job easier and less messy. I will have blown the oil out of the threads
and there shouldn't be any swarf in any holes, but double check. Pay
particular attention to all the threaded holes.
Check the fit of the adapter on the bellhousing, there seems to be some variation in
bellhousings register diameter, some times they are tight, when you have 400lbs of
engine bolted to the adapter it's not noticible, but best check it.
The Bellhousing studs are the stock 3/8"UNC-3/8UNF studs, the bellhousing is threaded to
at least 20 mm deep and the threads are tight-this is intentional. You should be able to remove and install the
studs with a pair of 3/8" UNF nuts, if you have trouble removing them from the old casting warm it
up a bit, if any studs have damaged threads bin them and fit new ones. There is a stud which is
coincident with the starter gear, check it doesn't go in far enough to interfere with the
gear, a stock stud doesn't.
There is a bolt through the block and into the adapter, it's located below the starter motor, the picture
of the block side of the adapter below has the location marked[12 mm], the adapter is threaded to accept
a 12mm[12mmx1.75mm] bolt, I think the bolt I used was from the Montego. This bolt would interfere with the
ring gear if more than 1.125" is threaded through the adapter, Check when you bolt it togther that the
bolt doesn't touch the starter ring gear.
Trial fit the adapter to the engine, if your going to use a gasket clean the block and adapter
and install it, snug the bolts up - no need to tighten them- and make sure the adapter is on
evenly[contacting block both sides and at the top. Bolt the flywheel on and check the
engine still turns over i.e none of your bolt's have thick heads and interfere with the
flywheel. The adapter bolted to the Montego block as standard, uses a gasket. I used Suzuki
Bond[black rtv used to seal crankcase halfs] without a gasket. Suzuki Bond is similar to ordinary
silicon[just costs more]. Silicon on it's own seems to seal OK. The first time I installed my engine I
had an oil leak from the adapter, the engine had to be removed to seal it so take care whatever you use.
I use an aerosol can of brake cleaner[or cellulose thinners] to clean parts prior to assembly this seems
to work well and is conveniant.
The timing pin hole is Partly threaded 8mm, it's a loose thread, a short bolt[~10mm] can be put in
to block this hole. Don't tighten the bolt to tight, the timing pin is larger than an 8mm bolt and
thread won't withstand much torque.
The drain hole at the bottom of the adapter has been threaded, it's threaded 10mm a very short bolt
can be used as a plug, you will find it has to be very short to go between the crossmember and the adapter. I
will move the boss when i make the next pattern.
The Starter holes are threaded 10mm[10mmx1.5mm], 10x35 socket capheads do nicely. A wobble
drive extension and an 3/8" drive allen key makes installation and removal a breeze.
check the starter motor bolt's snugly to the adapter, the adapter-starter faces should mate.
make sure your wiring has the right terminal for the starter, some sherpa's have 1/4" lucar
terminal rather than the 3/8" terminal on the Montego wiring harness.
make sure you can install the breather to sump pipe running under the starter, or remember to
install it if you removed it, check you can install the starter wiring on the starter with it
bolted to the block. I can't install the pipe with my starter motor installed, I can attach the
wiring it's not really fiddly, but I would disconnect the battery earth terminal before using a
spanner on the starter terminal.
Best to check everything to make sure, feel free to email me with any questions.