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Figure 1: Rendered drawing of the rh engine mount, alternator
boss missing, packing pieces on block face shown.
Last week I made several sets of mount's, each with slight
differances, I can hardley charge £100 for something
that takes a weekend of carefull cutting and welding to make
- well someone will get that set.. I have drawn the dimensions
in these drawing from the second set I made, the nicest way
to do them is to angle the top pieces and spend ages getting
all the angles nice and looking sort of elegant; what the
hell they are only engine mount's..
I constructed them from 5mm BMS[cold rolled steel], there
isn't any reason why 3mm/10swg can't be used, but they should
be rigid as the rubber should do the flexing.
Pointers on Construction:
I have incorported a bend into the top plate, part1 in each
of the engine mounts, Instead of bending the plate you can
move the engine up a few mm and weld the lh mount part2 directly
to part1, the rh mount can have part 2 fabricated from two
pieces to make part2 with a bend in it - mud and clear comes
to mind.
The suggested plan of attack is:
- Cut out mount parts 1 and drill them to bolt to the block,
drill 10.2 mm or greater. Bolt the plates to the block,
don't forget to include packing pieces parts 5 and 6 behind
the rh mount.
- Cut out parts 2 for both mounts, fabricate part2 rh mount
if necessary, try bolting the parts down to the chassis
mount stud and check how well the butt against parts 1,
you should check before you cut out the parts and see that
the parts are going to be about right.
- Alter parts 2, and if neccessary parts 1, so they butt
nicely.Tack weld them together - on the corners- this can
be done in place or on the bench and the mount checked,
you want the mount angled upwards slightly - touching the
mount on the inside-, this is to allow for distortion.
- weld the interiour fillet-this will tend to pull the mount
back to shape. Turn over and weld the back.
- Do the other engine mount while your waiting for the first
to cool - or check the first, first so you have some idea
of the amount of distortion. Check the first engine mount,
the angle should be spot on with a bit of luck, yes it's
luck, if not stick it in a vice and flatten it a bit or
put slightly more bend in it.
- Chop out the polygons, I would make the back ones narrower
than the front ones, better access to the front two bolts-
IIRC when i made my engine mounts the back vertical pieces
were cut from 1"x5mm [25mm?]-and makes it easier to
get the mount's in. One end of the the back vertical pieces
has to butt against part1 so has to fit reasnobly but the
upper end isn't critical. the front vertical pieces are
lapped over the ends of part1 and 2 so as long as they clear
everything around them shape isn't critical.
- tack the polygons to part1 and part2, weld one side of
the piece then the other to limit the distortion, rather
then welding the full length in one seam. You will still
end up putting a a curve into plate 1 but it sits on 'pedestals'
so it doesn't matter..
- While the rh mount is off tack the packing pieces in place,
the front one covers the weld so have it bolted in place
when the second weld is done.
- The alternator lower mount takes a 10 mm bolt, I made
some bosses from 1" diam steel 18mm long -with a 10mm
thread through- and welded them to the the front face of
the rh mount, I will include the postion in one ofthe drawings.
the alternator strap is the montego curved alternator strap,
the location of the mount is quite important so you get
full travel of the alternator in the slot.
- The location of the bottom alternator boss is verticaly
63mm above the top block bolt thru the engine mount and
horizontaly 78 mm from the block surface[back of engine
mount part1, in fact back of packing piece]. The belt I
used is mentioned elsewhere, I have to take the top mount
bolt out to move the alternator closer to the motor to fit
the belt and the side of the lh rear battery box leg needs
'pruning'..
By the way I cut the parts out with a hacksaw, I do have
a cut off saw but by the time you have straighted up the ends
of the cut pieces you could have chopped them out with a hacksaw.
I have 80mmx5mm and 50mmx5mm flatstock, you with a few more
cut's you can get the whole lot out of 80mmx5mm, so if you
are asked for a cutting charge I would by a bar or 80x5 instead.
Just the alternator mount and the
cutting list to do...
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